Tanning is a popular term these days, as it is almost treated like a hobby among teenagers and young adults.
Tanning culture has been apparent in the United States for decades. It was once a huge trend in the 2000s under the influence of IT Girls, such as Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan, Nicole Richie, and more. With the return of Y2K culture, tanning is coming back stronger than ever this year. Everyone is going “tanning this weekend.”
Although it seems like a fun and interesting trend, tanning can be risky, especially with the damaged ozone layer and global warming. There are girls that I know of — most of which have cool undertones and are of lighter skin tones — that have said they’re “willing to get sunburnt just to be tanned.” With such an approach to tanning, to what extent are we drawing the line between prettifying and killing for beauty?
First of all, it is important to understand the process in which our skin tone gets tanner. This process, called melanogenesis, starts off when ultraviolet rays (both UVA and UVB) penetrate the skin, which then damages the DNA within the skin cells. Because our body is a complex organism, this damage triggers a protective response. The UV radiation stimulates melanocytes, which are located in the outer layer of the skin. The activation of melanocytes signals the skin to produce melanin. There are two types of melanins: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is brown or black pigmented and offers better protection against sun damage, and it is usually referred to as natural sunscreen. Pheomelanin, on the other hand, is reddish-yellow pigmented and is less effective at blocking the sun — in fact, its production sometimes leads to increased oxidative stress in the skin, which increases risks of skin cancer.
Usually, people of darker skin tones or with warm undertones have and produce more eumelanin, which not only makes them less susceptible to sunburn, but also makes them tan faster. People with lighter skin tones or cool undertones usually produce more pheomelanin, which makes their skin more sensitive to sunburn and harder to tan. Coincidentally, those of lighter skin tones are the ones that participate in tanning culture the most, and this is the reason why it is so often heard that they are “willing to get sunburnt to be tanned.”
Additionally, along with destruction of the ozone layer, UV radiation is stronger than ever. UVA rays contribute largely to skin aging (wrinkles, sunspots, etc) and skin cancer, as they penetrate deep into the skin. UVB rays are key to vitamin D synthesis but also are the main cause of sunburns and a major cause of skin cancer. The intensity of UVA stays the same throughout the day, while UVB is generally strongest around noon.
Healthcare professionals and dermatologists recommend wearing sunscreen that has at least a sun protection factor of 30 when in the sun from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Incorporating sunscreen into your daily morning routine is crucial. Wearing sunscreen not only helps reduce risk of sunburn and skin cancer, but also helps prevent skin aging and reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation and redness.
When choosing sunscreen, it is important to go for those that are non-comedogenic. Avoid sunscreens that are oil based (coconut oil, cocoa butter, mineral oil, etc.), because they can clog pores, and include emollients and esters, like Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Octyl Palmitate), Isopropyl Isostearate, Myristyl Myristate, Laureth-4, and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol; chemical UV filters, like Oxybenzone and Octinoxate; and fragrance. In fact, consider mineral sunscreens (formulated with Zinc Oxide and/or Titanium Oxide) instead of chemicals – they’re better for the skin and the ocean, too. Additionally, Zinc Oxide has acne clearing properties, which may help those with mild to moderate acne.
Some sunscreen products to consider may include:
Curology’s The Sunscreen (SPF 30) -$17 – formulated with Zinc Oxide and Titanium Oxide and a lightweight, non-greasy formula, this sunscreen can work for those with sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Elta MD UV Clear (SPF 46) -$46 – formulated with key ingredients niacinamide and antioxidants, this sunscreen gives people a lightweight and non-greasy experience. Additionally, it can also help restore hydration for dry skin.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Fluid Facial Sunscreen (SPF 60) -$32.99 – this chemical sunscreen is fast absorbing and extremely lightweight, giving the skin a matte finish. Formulated with La Roche-Posay’s own CellOx filter, antioxidant, and silica, this sunscreen not only is effective against the sun, but also prevents the skin from drying out.
As of right now, there’s no such thing as healthy tanning. When the skin gets tanned, that means it is already damaged, which isn’t healthy. An alternative option is to get a spray tan or self-tanner. Self-tanners are formulated with DHC, a safe chemical that, when applied to skin, reacts with dead skin cells on the upper layer and creates temporary brown pigments that mimic tan on skin.
**Updated 6/30/25 for font and format correction
